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Wakum Mata!
Politcally Incorrect Musings
New camp bed design 
28th-Feb-2010 07:43 am
Click on an image to read my comments on it.

28th-Feb-2010 05:41 pm (UTC) - Resources
Here is a good explanation of various wood joints. I will be making a lot of dowel butt joints and I need a jig. I don't do a lot of woodworking so making a dowel jig makes more sense than buying one. Lowe's didn't have one, anyway.
28th-Feb-2010 06:12 pm (UTC) - Re: Resources
You said "butt"...
1st-Mar-2010 03:24 am (UTC)
So not doing a period style design?
1st-Mar-2010 04:28 am (UTC)
Not this go around. Next iteration.

This is actually my second attempt at designing a bed. The first one was period-style and the plans were... shall we say... flawed. The dimensions were off by quite a bit and it would be a near redesign to fix them all.

This is similar to the Ikea beds. They didn't have the one we wanted so I am making one.
1st-Mar-2010 04:41 am (UTC) - Correction
Correction - this is my third bed. Linnet's bed is my second and was designed to be nigh indestructible by small children.
1st-Mar-2010 05:12 pm (UTC) - Bad designs are not my fault.
Anonymous coward
They weren't MY plans, BTW. I downloaded them from some site.

1st-Mar-2010 03:28 am (UTC) - Joints and angula loads
The joints you ar using arn't exactly the my first choice for the bed railes. Yes the brickets are neet but ti will be difficult to get a tight fit with the end of the bed rail with the head and foot board. Too complicated for repeted accemble and disassembly. Also the loose fit and small ajoining serface has some very high trosional loads that will pull the fasteners out of the wood. 3.5 inches is not enough surface to react out over turning moments of pushing longinatudnaly on the bed rail of 2,775 in pounds on the edges of the bed rails.

I would come up with a design with about 8 to 10 in deep bed raild and slot and wedg configuration through the head and foot bord leges. or add boards on the sides of the head and foot board to increase foot print along the direction of the bed raie about 6 to 8 inches this will control the torque
1st-Mar-2010 04:39 am (UTC) - Re: Joints and angula loads
My first choice was for a mortised hook and slot bed rail fastener (as used on Linnet's bed), but the all the hardware stores, including Woodcraft, were out of the proper sizes.

I agree that the L-brackets don't have much torsional strength so I am thinking that using a bolt and t-nut arrangement might make it stronger and prevent it from pulling out. You will note that there is a near complete lack of description on mounting hardware such as screws and bolts - still working on those details. The center brace should help a bit with the longitudinal loads

Also missing from the drawing is the rope to keep the bed rails from splaying out. Inward compression is not a concern since the bed slats will prevent that.

Edited at 2010-03-01 04:42 am (UTC)
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